1893
―1971
Maria Likarz-Strauss was an influential figure in early 20th-century textile and fashion design, particularly within the Wiener Werkstätte – viennese avant-gardists combining art, design and functionality driven by the idea of the „Gesamtkunstwerk“ (total work of art) and marketing their modern brand design with a refined corporate identity down to the smallest detail. Born in Przemyśl, Poland, she pursued artistic studies at the School of Arts for Women and Girls in Vienna before furthering her education at the Kunstgewerbeschule, where she trained under notable figures such as Josef Hoffmann in architecture and Rosalia Rothansl in textile design. Likarz-Strauss began contributing to the Wiener Werkstätte early in her career, designing postcards, participating in the Mode Wien 1914/5 portfolio. She was known for her innovative use of contrasting shapes and colors, which broke away from traditional Victorian and Arts and Crafts styles that had dominated Western European design. Inspired by the works of painters such as Piet Mondrian and Fernand Léger, her textiles embodied the energy of modern urban life, with bold geometric forms and flattened pictorial planes, reflecting the modernist experiments of her time.
During her time there, the Wiener Werkstätte became a hub for progressive design, and while it did not explicitly promote gender equality, it was one of the few spaces where women had the opportunity to engage in decorative arts on a significant scale. At its peak, the Wiener Werkstätte employed more than 180 women, and Maria Likarz-Strauss was a key contributor, creating innovative and timeless designs and producing over 200 textile patterns, wallpaper designs, porcelain pieces, fashion and enamel works.
While male artists typically received more recognition, Likarz-Strauss and her peers found a supportive and collaborative community within the Wiener Werkstätte, making important strides in the evolution of European modern design. (ms)